never quite contrite

…but always open to discussion.

Comprehending duty August 16, 2007

In college, I lived with a girl whose parents were Indian immigrants. My roommate was the most modern, typical American you could ever want to meet, but underneath our trips to Banana Republic and movies and smoothies, there was a distinction between us. When we talked about dating, or career choices, or any other major life decisions, she frequently referenced what her parents would think if they found out. Often, her answer was “I can’t do that” because her parents wouldn’t approve.

This is not to say they weren’t supportive of her individual wishes; they were, and are. There were just some choices she would rather not have garner their disapproval, and she acted accordingly. This was completely alien to me. My attitude– and advice to her– was consistently, “screw what your parents think, they’ll get over it, just do what you want.” I never truly understood not only the function but the feeling of duty to one’s parents until now.

My mother and her mother came over to help me prepare for the move into the warehouse. For those who are new to the discussion, I decided to move into an artists’ colony in a warehouse in East Baltimore’s Station North arts district. I would be spending all of my time writing, producing textile arts, and pursuing my journalistic career.  So my mom and my grandmother come over to my apartment, one floor of an old rowhome, to help me pack.

All the while, they’re asking questions. I try to break the idea in gently. Yes, it’s in a rougher area. Yes, I have a gated parking lot inside the building. Yes, we have elevator keys. Yes, my cat is coming with me. Yes, they are really nice people.  The area’s on the upswing. It’s just received a special designation from the City and a lot of money is being funneled its way… And then they ask me if we can go drive by and see it.

This puts me at a distinct disadvantage. First of all, my mother’s terrified of my neighborhood now. There are more people here than in our entire town.  Also, I don’t have keys yet. That means I can’t pop into the gated lot, go up the elevator, and show off the comparatively clean, pleasant, welcoming space inside the warehouse. I just have to show off the Baltimore office of Social Services, weeds in the sidewalks, and the chicken & lake trout shop adjacent to the boarded-up warehouse that neighbor the Copycat. But I acquiesce, rationalizing that they have to see it sometime, so why not now?

To call the tension “palpable” as we cruised up Guilford Ave and out of the comparative glory of Mount Vernon would be an embarassing understatement. My mother’s eyes bulged behind her sunglasses. My placid, comforting grandmother became snippy as I nervously shouted last-minute turn instructions and tried to figure out what to say to these people. They were mostly silent as we circled the warehouse, me pointing out the large windows and how the surrounding buildings were– mostly– coming up, too. We saw a hipster art girl walk into the warehouse; bonus points for me, showing it’s inhabited by young people like myself.  My grandmother suggests we circle the building again. These women become ominously silent. I know they are scheming.

When we return to my apartment, my grandmother parallel parks and ensures the doors are locked. The seatbelts come off and my mom and grandmother turn to face me in the backseat, selecting their words as if each were choosing the proper filleting knife for a particular fish. They want to be sure. My grandmother takes the more levelheaded route, addressing my financial concerns and telling me that it’s not a prudent course of action to move ‘backwards’– from living alone to having a roommate, from living in a secure area to one where I need a gated parking space. I fumble out something about artist types and how plenty of young people live there, and that it’s not that bad. My mom is interspersing this with comments about how unsafe the neighborhood looks, and how it’s not well-kept like Hampden or Camden or a surprising number of other Baltimore neighborhoods she seems to know by name. I’m still buckled in, sputtering uselessly about the experience, when my mom plays her pocket ace: my grandfather wouldn’t want me living in such an unsafe area. I dissolve completely into sobs, feebly telling my mother that she has just used an unfair trump card. In my weakened state, they are able to quickly apply parent logic to everything– practically throwing money at me to assuage my financial concerns related to living in the apartment of a salaried young journalist when I have become a bartender, promising to come back tomorrow and help me redecorate, and making me promise I won’t move.

And unlike every single time I was ever told “no” before, as a child, as an adolescent, or as a young adult, I don’t fight them. I don’t tell them all the reasons they’re wrong about the neighborhood, and that I’ll prove them wrong, and I don’t care about their sleepless nights overdramatizing the dangerousness of the neighborhood.  I simply say, of course not. I won’t move. I’ll stay. I’ll swallow my pride and accept your help on some of my mounting bills. Somehow it just became crystal-clear to me that my indulgence is simply not worth whatever worrisome hell, real or imagined, I’d be putting them through. Strangest of all, I don’t feel conflicted or regretful. In the turn of that one moment, I simply lost all desire to do something that my mom and my grandmother don’t want me to do. Unexpectedly, I found out the meaning of filial duty.

 

Baltimore summers July 17, 2007

They’re pretty sweet. Once in a while, I wake up on a day off and wonder what, exactly, I can do that won’t be the same old. Yes, I live near the Inner Harbor, but you can imagine it’s a pretty big corporate cash cow– and not authentically Baltimore (unless you count that smell emanating from the waterfront). Best solution to this conundrum? Get off your tail and, as the city’s tourism board urges us, “get into it.”

So yesterday, we decided to explore one of Baltimore’s neighborhoods. My friend and I chose Charles Village– a mostly residential neighborhood with a few standby restaurants surviving among the escalating clusters of Starbuckses, Chipotles, and Barnes & Nobles radiating out from Johns Hopkins University. After a little debate, we settled on lunch at Rocky Run, a sports bar/casual dining joint where I discovered that deep-fried pickles are a traditional Baltimore delicacy. They have great sandwiches, and Natty Boh– official beer from the Land of Pleasant Living– is served in glass bottles. The most standout moment, though, was getting the check.

Rich: Why’d you have to drink Coke?
Me: Because I was in the mood for a Coke… Why?
Rich [hands me the bill, which reads the following]

Hickory BBQ Burger $8.97
1984 French Dip $8.54
Soft Drink $2.19
National Bohemian $2.00

The most refreshing brew in town actually costs less than a regular fountain Coke. I don’t think I can really overstate the watery quality and smooth texture of this beer, but you should get the picture. It can give you a little headache, but it’s totally worth the pain.

After Rocky Run, we decided Charles Village didn’t have a lot to offer in the way of entertainment. That’s when we got the bright idea to catch an Orioles game. Here’s the great thing about having a team that’s working on their tenth straight losing season: tickets are almost always cheap and available. Also, your expectations are artificially low. So we drove back to my house, tossed on some O’s gear, and walked down to Camden Yards.

We bought tickets on the Eutaw Street deck below the scoreboard. Let me tell you, at first I was skeptical (I usually sit along the baselines), but when we got to our seats I was blown away. We were practically on the field, and with a crew a little bit more civilized than the college deck. For fifteen bucks a pop. I could see the stitching on Corey Patterson’s jersey over my 1/4 lb. hot dog (so good).

It was a kick ass game, too. The dear old Orioles were down 3 runs by the end of the second inning, and showing no signs of improvement when things magically turned around. After a rollercoaster of rallies that left men stranded on base during the sixth and eighth innings, the O’s tied it up in the bottom of the ninth. This was good, old-fashioned baseball. There was a wicked double play, to the delight of crazed Baltimoreans. Rich and I decided that if the O’s pulled out the win, we’d have to go out for another Natty Boh… and they did, in the 10th inning, final score 7 to 6. Across the street to Pickles Pub we walked.

The strip of bars outside Camden Yards is a zoo after a game, but when the Orioles win you have to go out. And, amid the bean bag toss and beer pong games on picnic tables indoors, I remembered– very cornily– why I love Baltimore. It might not be classy, but you don’t find anything like this scene in Washington or New York. It’s the totally classless that attracts me to Baltimore. Dancing in the street to songs that went out of popularity fifteen years ago. The overabundance of grown-up leagues for children’s sports. The use of cheap beer as a sports drink during said activities.

Baltimore… you tow my car… you ticket me a lot… your electricity rates are obscene and you are the heroin capital of America. In 2007. When most people don’t even do IV drugs anymore. You are also the capital for various STDs and everything in you is corrupt. But I love you. <3